Monthly Archive for November, 2008

Vegetarian Thanksgiving in Paris

Thursday is just another day for most Parisians. But for the expats, it’s a time to defrost the Tofurkey, gather your friends and have a feast. With that in mind, i wanted to share a few links.

Thanksgiving
20, rue Saint Paul (4°)
01 42 77 68 28 or 29
Metro: St.Paul, Sully Morland
Cajun restaurant and American groceries

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Souvenir and Gift buying in Paris

Fall is in the air and tourists to Paris can’t help but think about what to bring back as gifts for the holidays. Paris has no shortage on shopping; but where could you find something a bit more unique than an Eiffel Tower key chain or Mona Lisa t-shirt?

Markets

You’ll find a great variety of locally produced and manufactured items at the daily markets. Here are some of the better options:

  • Bastille market on Sunday: You’ll find not only food but hand crafts from around France, North Africa, and other regions. Just go to metro: Bastille, you can’t miss it from about 9 a.m. to about 2 p.m. for the best choices
  • Visit one of the Marchés des Producteurs de Pays . These markets are filled with vendors from around the country. You can purchase wine and spirits directly from the producers, honey, wax, and wool items. Personally, I love the socks. They are great gifts for your friends with diabetes. You can also taste fresh made Aligot, a mixture of potatoes and regional stringy cheese, which is hard to find. Here are some upcoming events:
    • November 22-23, Boulevard de Reuilly, 12th arrondissement (metro Daumesnil).
    • December 5-7, St. Paul village court. This is a bit harder to find. Take the St. Paul metro and go behind the St. Paul church.
  • Honey and Confiture: Nothing brings back local taste than regional honey and preserves. David Lebovitz has a great article about Honey in Paris. For confiture, check out your local markets, the Marchés des Producteurs de Pays, and also stop by a nice fromagerie to see if they offer a confiture de la maison. I buy my coffee and confiture from Pascal Guiraud, in the 12th Arrondissement on Blvd de Reuilly.
  • Timmy at the Paris flea marketMacarons: It’s hard to go wrong with a great box of macarons from Pierre Hermé or Ladurée.
  • Flea Markets: Everyone has heard about the famous Paris Marché aux Puce. It’s enormous and sits in the north border of the city. Frankly, it’s overpriced and you could spend all day looking and not buy anything.

    However, there are several smaller flea markets that are more promising. I personally prefer the one at Porte de Vanves. It is every Saturday and Sunday from about 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.. Dress warmly for the winter shopping, some areas are always in the shade and it can get chilly. Look for inexpensive art (etchings and prints), glassware, jewelry, and household items.

    You’ll find your best bargains at a Vide Grenier (community garage sale). Keep an eye out for fliers around the city for the local sale. They are not always available.

This is just a short list of places to get gifts for friends and coworkers before heading home. Look for the locally produced and regional cuisines wherever you travel. They’ll be more memorable than the standard souvenirs.

Pascal Guiraud – Torréfacteur
21, boulevard de Reuilly (12°)
01 43 43 93 27
Metro: Daumesnil, Dugommier
Coffee, Tea, Confiture, and Fine Groceries

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It’s time for Soup in Paris

I grew up in Southern California where a cold day meant you had to wear pants instead of shorts and a t shirt. Now I’m in Paris where cold means snow or ice on the ground and shorts can be a dim memory. The scarf is around your face and gloves are on the hands.
Notre Dame de Paris
So now that it is fall and the days are getting shorter and colder; my mind has been going to something warm and satisfying: soup. The Parisian restaurants are filled with creative soup recipes. It’s a far cry from the standard vegetarian chili, lentil, and chunky vegetable soup you are lucky to find in American restaurants.

It’s time to pack away the shorts, sandals, and t-shirts. Bring out those sweaters, scarves, jackets, and gloves. We’re going on a field trip for soup in Paris.

Soup de Jour at Parisian Sweet Bar

Perhaps this cafe was the cause of my current obsession with soup. I stopped off a few weeks ago for my cafe au lait and found two new hotpots in the counter filled with soup. They feature two vegetarian soups every day. They also feature a small fixed menu deal, you get a large bowl of soup and a dessert (try the rice pudding) for 6.50 euros.

Their soups are also quite adventurous. Today I had a carrot and pineapple soup with walnut garnish. I’ve also had their Potiron (pumpkin) soup that was fantastic. They also feature a market vegetable soup for the less adventurous.

Parisian Sweet Bar is a wonderful cafe near Bercy park. They are filled with vegetarian delights and the friendliest service around.

Stuart Friendly – Spicy tomato soup

Toe mah toe soupAfter working another 12 hour day, I needed something to take the chill off my bones and wake me up. I stopped off at Stuart Friendly, a small restaurant near rue Montorguiel. They had a smaller vegetarian selection than I had expected. However, they did feature a spicy Mediterranean tomato soup. The large bowl was almost too large. Go for the small bowl unless you are really hungry.

Minestrone Soup at your local Italian restaurant

There’s a small Italian restaurant next to my work. It’s a decent place, nothing to go out of your way for. I was happy to see a sign tacked to the wall for a vegetarian minestrone. The soup had lots of noodles and vegetables.  I can’t say I’d recommend this particular recipe. But it would be a good idea to ask you local italian restaurant if their minestrone is vegetarian (or vegan). You may find it a much better choice than another linguine au pesto.

La Victoire in the Marais

Pumpkin and coconut milk soupLast night I stopped off at La Victoire, Suprême du Coeur for some soup. The daily special was a pumpkin/coconut milk soup. This was a great tasting soup. I’d highly recommend it. In fact, it’s a nice meal by itself.

Tien Hiang – Thai soup

Tien Hiang has a huge menu of vegetarian Asian cuisine. Their Thai soup is a standout amongst the various chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes. This tiny cafe in the 20th arr. is popular for a reason, great vegetarian/vegan food at low prices.

le Potager du Marais

How can I discuss soup in Paris without coming back to Le Potager du Marais? This popular restaurant in the Marais is soup central for vegetarians. It’s the place to go for a vegetarian French Onion Soup and much more. It doesn’t hurt to make reservations as the place is very tight and fills up quickly.

Soup and more at La Ferme

Soup and coffee
La Ferme is a pseudo-bohemian soup, salad, and pasta restaurant near Opera. It’s rustic interior matches their hardy vegetable soup. La Ferme is a simple place where you eat as if everything is takeout.

What is your favorite place for soup du jour?

Hopefully this post tempts you into the cold night for a bowl of warm soup. What is your favorite place to get soup in Paris?

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