Le Café du Métro – Historical and overpriced | Vegetarian Experiences in Paris

Paris is filled with history. While that is plainly obvious for the average person; as a Californian I am still impressed by a store, restaurant, or cultural venue that has been open for a century. Heck, San Diego was barely more than a mission and a few ranches 150 years ago. Meanwhile, Paris was undergoing a rebirth under Napoleon III and Hausmann.

In the mid-1850’s, Napoleon commissioned a major reconstruction of Paris, changing the city for centuries to come. Prefect Baron Haussmann led the project that modernized the health systems, architecture, and design of the city. (Bowditch 314) A loyal Bonapartist, Napoleon could trust Hausmann to carry out the emperor’s plans.

Napoleon III’s rebuild of Paris reflected his goals as Emperor of France. His reconstruction represented the power of France and the efficiency of his administration. It represented his desire for stability, partially helping him achieve that goal. The rebuild represented his desire of being “Emperor of the French,” in which his authoritarian state benefited the people. Finally, the actual construction created jobs which created unemployment, strengthening his government.
Napoleon III and the Rebuild of Paris

So you can imagine why I chose to eat at Le Café du Métro one night after reading about its age. This cafe has been open for business in the St Germain des Prés area since the 1920′s. I was hungry; for food and history, and their menu seemed promising.

However, what this cafe has in history it lacks in value and taste.

I ordered the french onion soup after the waiter promised it was vegetarian. The other options were a warm cheese salad and a basic pasta. The price for the soup seemed pretty high, 13 euros, but I figured it would include bread, salad, etc.

The soup arrived in the standard French Onion Soup bowl with a few large croutons and melted cheese. The flavor was dull and needed salt and pepper to wake it up. I thought maybe I had ordered the entree soup and not the dinner serving, certainly this was not 13 euros! Afterward I got a cafe au lait that was equally bland and expensive at 4.50 euros.

The total bill came to almost 18 euros for a small bowl of soup and a cup of coffee. Most restaurants would charge about 10 euros for the same meal. Granted I was in the touristy Left Bank and should have accepted paying more. But if I wanted to pay a lot for a name I would have walked a block further to Les Deux Maggots.

Le Café du Métro may have better choices for meat eaters. But I wouldn’t bet on it if they can’t make a decent bowl of onion soup.