Vegetarian Experiences in Paris » 4th Arrindissement

Pain, Vin, Fromages – the name says it all.

Ted — Sun, 05 Jun 2011 20:00:07 +0000

How long will you be in France? A day, week, or month? Will you have enough time to experience the best aspects of French cuisine? Maybe, if you visit Pain, Vin, Fromages, a small restaurant in the Marais district of Paris. The name says it all, you’ll find great bread and a wide assortment of French cheeses and wines.

I haven’t had the opportunity to eat here yet, but I’ve walked by and it looked very good. Of course, I’m a bit jaded. I have two major vices: bread and cheese. So this restaurant hit a soft spot.

The menu

Their menu is simple and well thought out. The items, not surprisingly, fall into three categories: bread, wine, and cheese. Each item, from the bread sticks to the 50 varieties of cheese, is carefully chosen and paired with wine by Vincent Durand, the resident oenologist.

Vegans are not going to find a lot of choices at this restaurant. But lacto vegetarians should love the extensive cheese selections, tartines, and most importantly the fondues.

Pain, Vin, Fromages is conveniently located near the Centre Pompidou in the Marais. It’s only open for dinner.

Pain, vin, fromages restaurant: 3, Rue Geoffroy-l’Angevin, 75004 Paris (4°); 01 42 74 07 52; painvinfromage@neuf.fr; Open everyday from 7 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.; Metro: Rambuteau; Wine bar

Tomatoes on toast with basil oil and fromage blanc (independent.co.uk)
Say cheese! Fromage phone app gets an update (seattletimes.nwsource.com)
Counting our Blessings in Bordeaux – Bordeaux, France (travelpod.com)
VinPass is a check-in service for wine lovers (intomobile.com)

Restaurant update: La Victoire Suprême du Cœur has changed

Ted — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 23:53:43 +0000

I just noticed that La Victoire Suprême du Cœur has changed owners. This news came courtesy of the blog Vegan Paris. The restaurant has changed names and now features non-vegetarian items. Fortunately, they still have the same kitchen staff, so there should still be some good options for vegetarian diners.

Report From Vegan Paris

But sadly, it seems that the restaurant couldn’t go on without us and just a couple of months after we left they have transformed into the Foie Gras-friendly “Le Passage Obligé”
There is one bright side: the new restaurant is run by the same “équipe,” who were always fairly well informed about what ‘vegan’ means, and the menu is clearly labelled with several vegetarian and vegan options. Also, they have vegan desserts.
Paris loses a Vegan restaurant: La Victoire Suprême du Cœur becomes Le Passage Obligé

La Victoire was a high-end vegetarian restaurant in the Marais district. I’d been there a few times and enjoyed the variety of dishes.

Vegetarian in Pittsburgh (iheartpgh.com)
Thanksgiving for Vegans and Vegetarians in L.A. (laist.com)
The new VegEZ app for iPhone Saves Dinner (prweb.com)
Chez Grand-Mère – Le Chablis in Paris (parisvegetarian.com)

Kosher Pizza invades Falafel Alley

Ted — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:28:22 +0000

What is a pizza joint doing on a street dedicated to falafel? It’s bringing back a bit of Paris history and that is a good thing for us. The street has been a bit sad for years as the old Kosher Pizza restaurant sat empty and boarded up. Perhaps rue de Rosiers is returning to its history of kosher food instead of the latest batch of clothing stores.

Kosher food does not allow dairy and meat to be served or cooked together. That means this is a vegetarian pizza restaurant by default. You can even have it sans cheese for your vegan fix.

The lack of meat is not the only thing different about the Kosher Pizza Restaurant. The walls are covered with Orthodox Jewish posters and scripts instead of Venetian sunsets, the standard images of Michelangelo’s David have also been replaced with rabbi photos; which reminds me a bit of the Rabbi trading cards available from Archie McPhee in Seattle.

The Pizza

The pizza has a ridiculously thin crust. It is more like a cracker than the dough you’d see in a thick crusted pizza. Perhaps this is a nod to matzo.

The pizza options are mostly variations of onion, leek, egg, olives, and eggplant. It’s a bit surprising to see pizza names, like nicoise, and not see the traditional meat ingredient listed.

I was a bit worried when I sat down and watched a young couple eat three pizzas. I was unfortunately brought up with the concept of quantity over quality at pizza joints. Forget the California bite sized pizzas, bring on the buy 1 get 3 free delivery specials.

However, I was pleasantly surprised at how filling the provincial pizza was. It’s a cracker thin crust with sauce, a sprinkling of cheese, and topped with ratatouille. The cheese is so minimal that I’m sure vegans would love this pizza without the cheese. The toppings blended nicely with the sauce.

Kosher Pizza is obviously closed on sabbath and Jewish holidays. It’s a bit more expensive than its falafel neighbors, but you’ll appreciate the unique experience.

Kosher Pizza: 17 rue des Rosiers (4°); Metro: St. Paul; 01 48 87 56 88; Wheelchair Friendly: Wow! This is very accessible. There are no steps to enter and the bathroom is easily reached from the dining area. Even the tables are wheelchair friendly.

Overall: 4/5
Value: 3/5
Location: 5/5
Taste: 4/5
Vegetarian Options: 5/5
Vegan Options: 5/5

Want a little penis with your panini?

Ted — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 05:08:17 +0000

LeGay Choc is a fun boulangerie in the Marais district. It’s probably best known for its window filled with penis shaped bread and chocolate. But this place is more than phallic treats, it also has a nice selection of vegetarian goodies.

LeGay Choc also features a nice selection of tartines, sandwiches, and quiches. I was in there a few weeks ago getting some croissants for breakfast and was surprised by the selection. I’d say they were filled with good taste, but lets just say the food tasted good

There are lots of vegetarian options in the Marais. Keep LeGay Choc in mind when looking for a simple, fun lunch idea. It’s also the best place to get a sourdough zizi for the next dinner party.

LeGay Choc: 17 rue des Archives (4°); 45 rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie (4°); 33 rue Rambuteau (4°); Metro: Rambuteau, St. Paul; 01 48 87 56 88; Wheelchair Friendly: Entrance and bakery are tight and can be crowded.

Overall: 4/5
Value: 4/5
Location: 4/5
Taste: 4/5
Vegetarian Options: 3.5/5
Vegan Options: 2.5/5

Picasso Museum in Paris closes for renovations (cbc.ca)

Vegetarian Thanksgiving in Paris

Ted — Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:47:09 +0000

Thursday is just another day for most Parisians. But for the expats, it’s a time to defrost the Tofurkey, gather your friends and have a feast. With that in mind, i wanted to share a few links.

Vegetarian Thanksgiving Menu – from 101 Cookbooks
Vegan Thanksgiving Menu – from 101 Cookbooks
Vegetarian Thanksgiving Recipes – from V3GGIE
Thanksgiving – the American food store and Cajun restaurant in Paris

Thanksgiving: 20, rue Saint Paul (4°); 01 42 77 68 28 or 29; Metro: St.Paul, Sully Morland; Cajun restaurant and American groceries

La Taverne du Nil – Lebanese on Ile St. Louis

Ted — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 07:36:18 +0000

Vegetarians that don’t eat at Lebanese restaurants are missing out. While much of Lebanese cuisine is centered around lamb, it is also filled with Mediterranean vegetarian options.

Gridskipper, a travel web site describes the special connection between France and Lebanese culture

Those in the know will visit Paris for excellent terroir cuisine to be sure, but they will also know to look for certain regional fare such as Meditarranean food. In that category (a diverse lot ranging from North African to Greek and Jewish cooking), Lebanese cuisine is a heavy hitter and a favorite amongst the locals. Narrow historical ties between the two countries (Lebanon was a French UN mandate from the end of WWI until WWII, earning Beirut the nickname of “Paris of the East”) have led to a steady influx of Lebanese immigrants into Paris, which of course has translated into a vibrant and bountiful restaurant scene.
Best Lebanese Dining in Paris: La Taverne du Nil

I visited this restaurant with a meat eating friend. We chose the Mézzé platter at 43 Euros to share family style. This is a selection of 9 small dishes. There was an assortment of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, from Hummus to sausage. We simply asked the waiter to bring a variety of mostly vegetarian and a couple meat dishes. You could also request purely vegetarian or vegan options. They have enough to chose from.

While this is a collection of small dishes, it certainly was not a small meal. The platter was seemingly bottomless. It’s a pricey meal at 43 Euros, but not a bad value. The food is fresh and well prepared. The service was great, the environment was great for conversations, and the location is central.

La Taverne du Nil: 16, rue Le Regrattier (4e); 01 40 46 09 02; Metro: Pont-Marie; Lebanese restaurant

Overall: 4.5/5
Location: 5/5
Taste: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Vegetarian Friendly: 4/5
Vegan Friendly: 3/5
M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

Bubbles Dietbar near the Marais

Ted — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 19:18:48 +0000

Cicero spoke about the guilty of conscience:

Guilt is present in the very hesitation, even though the deed be not committed.
Cicero (Marcus Tullius Cicero)

Bubbles Dietbar’s healthy outlook made me feel like a downright felon tonight. It probably also makes many others feel the pang of guilt as they walk past this tiny cafe of diet goodness. It’s bad enough that I have to pass it as I walk over to Falafel Alley.

Bubbles even sits next door to an American style Diner! How could someone possibly eat a stack of pancakes with eggs, bacon, toast, hash browns, and coffee while next door is this quaint cafe filled with healthy food?

Fortunately, Bubbles Dietbar was closed tonight. I was able to walk straight by to King Falafel to grab an overflowing falafel pita. This is actually the first time I’ve seen the cafe. Its bright green awning would normally catch my eye. So, perhaps this is a new restaurant for Paris.

Their online menu shows a plethora of vegetarian soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts. They are conveniently located near the St. Paul metro. I’ll have to find a new route to falafel alley or I may find myself pressured into eating something healthy when I’ve got my heart set on something else.

Bubbles Dietbar: 4 rue Malher (4°) Paris; 01 40 29 42 41; Metro: St. Paul, Bastille, Chemin Vert; Soup and Salad Bar; Free Wifi

Piccolo Teatro in the Marais is now closed

Ted — Sun, 06 Apr 2008 18:47:54 +0000

The Piccolo Teatro was a small, romantic restaurant in the Marais district. After reading reviews on the internet, I was anxious to try it. Unfortunately, this restaurant’s web site (the web site is also gone) states they are closed and in fact the place is for sale.

Gordon Ramsay Steps In

This restaurant was featured on Gordon Ramsey‘s television show. He tried to give the owner a new chance to succeed. Alas, this wasn’t successful. I’ve posted this information to let people know the status, there are plenty of outdated mentions on other sites.

Piccolo Teatro: 6, rue des Ecouffes (4°); 01 42 72 17 79; Metro: St-Paul; Closed Restaurant

Dining Calendar [via Zemanta]
Top 10 hidden art gems in Paris [via Zemanta]
Paris travel guide: shopping [via Zemanta]
Chef Michael Chiarello dishes on his future television endeavours (uncork29.com)
Diner’s Journal: Open Tables, Even at Per Se (dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com)
Chef Michael Chiarello dishes on his future television endeavours (uncork29.com)
Diner’s Journal: Open Tables, Even at Per Se (dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com)
Gordon Ramsey Called Her a ‘Lesbian Pig.’ She’s Neither of Those Things (queerty.com)

Thai Classic – Friendly Thai food in the Marais

Ted — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 19:15:54 +0000

Some cuisines are more likely to offer vegetarian options than others. It is difficult to find a good veggie option at a German restaurant, whereas Indian cuisine is filled with tasty dishes. Asian food is hit an miss, it is next to impossible to find veggie Pho, yet Thai and Korean are rather easy.

I have tried a few Asian restaurants in Paris and their options have been limited. I even found an Indian restaurant with little for vegetarians. So, it is with great relief that I stopped off at Thai Classic in the Marais district.

I knew I was going to be in luck when the fixed price menu featured a vegetarian option. They also offer 8 vegetarian plates and 5 starters. Take your pick from the standards: Tom Kha soup, spring rolls, glass noodles, red and green curries with tofu, and stir fried veggies.

I ordered the fixed price menu. It starts with an aperitif, then follows with a bento-box like tray with egg rolls, fried rice, and salad. The food is delicious and satisfying. I also enjoyed the hospitality.

I arrived just after they opened and before the main crowd arrived. I shared the restaurant with a couple from New Zealand and the owner visited during the meal. Parisians typically eat in restaurants after 8 p.m.. Early diners will usually find less crowds, more attention, and a quiet dinner. You’re also more likely to have tourists to talk with.

This restaurant has a lot of competition for your vegetarian dollars. It sits near the very popular La Victoire, Falafel alley, Potager de Marais, and many italian and french restaurants with vegetarian options Try this restaurant when you are craving some Thai food. It also features a full meat menu, so your meat-eating friends will enjoy it as well.

Thai Classic: 26 Rue des Lombards (4°); 01 48 87 22 04; Metro: Hotel de Ville, Chatealet-Les Halles; Thai Restaurant

Overall: 4/5
Location: 5/5
Taste: 4/5
Service: 4.5/5
Vegetarian Friendly: 4.5/5
Vegan Friendly: 4.5/5
M.E.F. Friendly: 3/5

Le Pain Quotidien – Marais bistro and bakery

Ted — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 13:10:12 +0000

I first saw this restaurant on a cold rainy Sunday. The place was packed and people were waiting under umbrellas for a chance to sit down. Luckily tonight it was slow and I have throughly enjoyed the peaceful evening.

Le Pain Quotidien sits in the heart of the Marais. It triangulates BHV, the grand department store and Quetzal, a popular old gay bar. There’s a steady stream of pedestrians with a soft cacophony of voices and laughter.

Le Pain Quotidien’s attention to details makes this small boulangerie/bistro a real winner. Everything is presented beautifully and with careful attention. I sat outside in the patio where I was provided not only a space heater, but also a small blanket for my lap.

The tables and chairs are simple, yet comfortable. Which explains much of this restaurant’s charm. I especially appreciated individual grinders for sea salt and black pepper, not to mention a nice bottle of olive oil on every table.

The menu is rather short, it features a variety of tartines, salads, and casseroles. Much of it is either meat or cheese based, but there are a few salads for the vegans. There’s also a selection of pastries inside and a small store of organic items.

I recently visited a vegetarian restaurant that featured great food but disappointing bread. Le Pain Quotidien took this organic, whole wheat, daily bread to a whole new level. It was soft, flavorful, and served as not only the foundation for the tartine, but a critical part of its texture and flavor.

I ordered the Tartine with chevre, pears, and honey. It was served with a nice salad and melon. I followed this with a pot of mint tea. The flavors were clean and distinct.

My only criticism is the service. While it was very friendly, the staff ignored the few of us in the outdoor patio. I didn’t mind too much, as i enjoyed the opportunity to relax and catch up on writing cards and working on the computer. Bring a book or a friend to fill the time before appearances.

Le Pain Quotidien is a wonderful addition to my list of restaurants. I will certainly return in the future.

Note: This is a chain of restaurants in Europe. This review is specific to the Marais restaurant and may not reflect on all of them. The branch in the London train station certainly doesn’t have the same atmosphere or food quality. However, it does feature some nice muffins and coffee/tea.

Le Pain Quotidien: 18-20, rue des Archives (4°); 01 44 54 03 07; Hotel de Ville; Boulangerie, Bistro; website: LePainQuotidien.com

Overall: 5/5
Location: 5/5
Taste: 5/5
Service: 4.5
Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
Vegan Friendly: 4/5
M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5