Archive for the '4th Arrindissement' Category

Bubbles Dietbar near the Marais

Cicero spoke about the guilty of conscience:

Guilt is present in the very hesitation, even though the deed be not committed.
Cicero (Marcus Tullius Cicero)

Bubbles diet bar in ParisBubbles Dietbar’s healthy outlook made me feel like a downright felon tonight. It probably also makes many others feel the pang of guilt as they walk past this tiny cafe of diet goodness. It’s bad enough that I have to pass it as I walk over to Falafel Alley.

Bubbles even sits next door to an American style Diner! How could someone possibly eat a stack of pancakes with eggs, bacon, toast, hash browns, and coffee while next door is this quaint cafe filled with healthy food?

Fortunately, Bubbles Dietbar was closed tonight. I was able to walk straight by to King Falafel to grab an overflowing falafel pita. This is actually the first time I’ve seen the cafe. Its bright green awning would normally catch my eye. So, perhaps this is a new restaurant for Paris.

Their online menu shows a plethora of vegetarian soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts. They are conveniently located near the St. Paul metro. I’ll have to find a new route to falafel alley or I may find myself pressured into eating something healthy when I’ve got my heart set on something else.

Bubbles Dietbar
4 rue Malher (4°) Paris
01 40 29 42 41
Metro: St. Paul, Bastille, Chemin Vert
Soup and Salad Bar
Free Wifi
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Piccolo Teatro in the Marais is now closed

Piccolo Teatro
The Piccolo Teatro was a small, romantic restaurant in the Marais district. After reading reviews on the internet, I was anxious to try it. Unfortunately, this restaurant’s web site (the web site is also gone) states they are closed and in fact the place is for sale.

Gordon Ramsay Steps In

This restaurant was featured on Gordon Ramsey‘s television show. He tried to give the owner a new chance to succeed. Alas, this wasn’t successful. I’ve posted this information to let people know the status, there are plenty of outdated mentions on other sites.

Piccolo Teatro
6, rue des Ecouffes (4°)
01 42 72 17 79
Metro: St-Paul
Closed Restaurant

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Thai Classic – Friendly Thai food in the Marais

Thai Classic restaurant in the MaraisSome cuisines are more likely to offer vegetarian options than others. It is difficult to find a good veggie option at a German restaurant, whereas Indian cuisine is filled with tasty dishes. Asian food is hit an miss, it is next to impossible to find veggie Pho, yet Thai and Korean are rather easy.

I have tried a few Asian restaurants in Paris and their options have been limited. I even found an Indian restaurant with little for vegetarians. So, it is with great relief that I stopped off at Thai Classic in the Marais district.

I knew I was going to be in luck when the fixed price menu featured a vegetarian option. They also offer 8 vegetarian plates and 5 starters. Take your pick from the standards: Tom Kha soup, spring rolls, glass noodles, red and green curries with tofu, and stir fried veggies.

I ordered the fixed price menu. It starts with an aperitif, then follows with a bento-box like tray with egg rolls, fried rice, and salad. The food is delicious and satisfying. I also enjoyed the hospitality.

I arrived just after they opened and before the main crowd arrived. I shared the restaurant with a couple from New Zealand and the owner visited during the meal. Parisians typically eat in restaurants after 8 p.m.. Early diners will usually find less crowds, more attention, and a quiet dinner. You’re also more likely to have tourists to talk with.

This restaurant has a lot of competition for your vegetarian dollars. It sits near the very popular La Victoire, Falafel alley, Potager de Marais, and many italian and french restaurants with vegetarian options Try this restaurant when you are craving some Thai food. It also features a full meat menu, so your meat-eating friends will enjoy it as well.

Thai Classic
26 Rue des Lombards (4°)
01 48 87 22 04
Metro: Hotel de Ville, Chatealet-Les Halles
Thai Restaurant
  • Overall: 4/5
  • Location: 5/5
  • Taste: 4/5
  • Service: 4.5/5
  • Vegetarian Friendly: 4.5/5
  • Vegan Friendly: 4.5/5
  • M.E.F. Friendly: 3/5
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Le Pain Quotidien – Marais bistro and bakery

I first saw this restaurant on a cold rainy Sunday. The place was packed and people were waiting under umbrellas for a chance to sit down. Luckily tonight it was slow and I have throughly enjoyed the peaceful evening.

Le Pain Quotidien sits in the heart of the Marais. It triangulates BHV, the grand department store and Quetzal, a popular old gay bar. There’s a steady stream of pedestrians with a soft cacophony of voices and laughter.

Le Pain Quotidien’s attention to details makes this small boulangerie/bistro a real winner. Everything is presented beautifully and with careful attention. I sat outside in the patio where I was provided not only a space heater, but also a small blanket for my lap.

The tables and chairs are simple, yet comfortable. Which explains much of this restaurant’s charm. I especially appreciated individual grinders for sea salt and black pepper, not to mention a nice bottle of olive oil on every table.

The menu is rather short, it features a variety of tartines, salads, and casseroles. Much of it is either meat or cheese based, but there are a few salads for the vegans. There’s also a selection of pastries inside and a small store of organic items.

I recently visited a vegetarian restaurant that featured great food but disappointing bread. Le Pain Quotidien took this organic, whole wheat, daily bread to a whole new level. It was soft, flavorful, and served as not only the foundation for the tartine, but a critical part of its texture and flavor.
Dinner at Le Pain Quotidien in the Marais
I ordered the Tartine with chevre, pears, and honey. It was served with a nice salad and melon. I followed this with a pot of mint tea. The flavors were clean and distinct.

My only criticism is the service. While it was very friendly, the staff ignored the few of us in the outdoor patio. I didn’t mind too much, as i enjoyed the opportunity to relax and catch up on writing cards and working on the computer. Bring a book or a friend to fill the time before appearances.

Le Pain Quotidien is a wonderful addition to my list of restaurants. I will certainly return in the future.

Note: This is a chain of restaurants in Europe. This review is specific to the Marais restaurant and may not reflect on all of them. The branch in the London train station certainly doesn’t have the same atmosphere or food quality. However, it does feature some nice muffins and coffee/tea.

Le Pain Quotidien
18-20, rue des Archives (4°)
01 44 54 03 07
Hotel de Ville
Boulangerie, Bistro
website: LePainQuotidien.com
  • Overall: 5/5
  • Location: 5/5
  • Taste: 5/5
  • Service: 4.5
  • Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
  • Vegan Friendly: 4/5
  • M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5
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La Victoire, Suprême du Coeur. Vegetarian in the Marais

Vegetarian restaurant in the marais
I came across this charming Marais restaurant while searching for a much needed Falafel dinner. While I didn’t have time that night to try this restaurant, it is at the top of my to-eat list. La Victoire has everything a vegetarian in Paris wants.

Their menu (.pdf) is filled with the French standards as well as creative veggie variations on the meat-filled plates filling every other restaurant in the city. The location is on a quiet street near Hôtel de Ville. It is bright, cheery, and full of great expectations.

The restaurant also has an air of vegan-superiority wit. Be sure to grab a few of their postcards on the way out. Your Meat Eating Friends will appreciate them.

Updated: Full review of La Victoire

Eggplant soup at La Victoire
I had a chance tonight to stop off at La Victoire. I was craving some soup and new this place would have a selection of vegetarian soups. There are some really great things about this restaurant. But there’s one downside that keeps me from giving it my full blessings.

I think the perfect vegetarian restaurant shouldn’t taste of compromises. The food should be super tasty, just without the animal products. For the most part, this restaurant succeeds. I had plenty of tasty bites. Unfortunately, this restaurant also slipped into this trap.

First off, the winners.

1. Free wifi – woo hoo! I am able to update this blog while sitting in the restaurant. I don’t have to worry about forgetting the flavors. It’s also quiet, comfortable, and restful.
2. Onion confit – Their sweet confit of onions is served with a mushroom terrine. It tastes like a marriage between lotus-flower honey and softly cooked onions. It outshined its compadre, the mushroom terrine, which was flavorful but had no texture.
3. Tarte chocolate with pralines - The chocolate part of this tart is great. It’s rich and satisfying. Unfortunately, the crust is a bit hard, in fact a chunk went flying off the table as I was trying to cut it. It also begs for some creme anglais. It’s still a tasty dessert that any chocolate lover will appreciate.

The losers

1. The bread: Why oh why in this city of amazing bread does a restaurant have to serve dry, whole-grained bread. There has to be a better recipe. This bread would have been great in New Mexico, but not Paris. This is the kind of compromise that makes your meat eating friends refuse to return. Give us some darn good bread that just happens to have whole grains.
2. Eggplant, tomato soup. It was good, warm, and filling. It just didn’t knock me out.

That’s not such a bad list. I will return to La Victoire. It’s in a great location in the Marais. It is affordable, the people are friendly, and they have a wonderful selection of food and drinks. It’s a small oasis of veggie goodness in the middle of Paris. Now, if they could only get some better bread.

Update – October 30, 2008 – Another visit

I decided to stop by tonight for some soup. I am happy to say they ditched the bread and replaced it with the standard “Poilane” slices. This is a big improvement. I also had a pumpkin/coconut milk soup (it was better than it sounds) and a Veggie burger with fries and a salad. The salad was salty, the fries were ok, but the veggie burger was great.

Update – January 12, 2010 – the restaurant has changed

Suprême du Coeur has changed. It is no longer a vegetarian/vegan restaurant. It now serves all types of French cuisine. Fortunately it still has some vegetarian options on the menu.

La Victoire, Suprême du Coeur
27-31, rue de Bourg Tibourg, 75004
Metro: Hotel de Ville
01 40 41 95 03
  • Overall: 4/5 stars/5
  • Location: 4.5/5
  • Taste: 4/5
  • Service: 4/5
  • Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
  • Vegan Friendly: 5/5
  • M.E.F. Friendly: 3/5

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