So I finally decided to see what the fuss was all about. Jean-Pierre promised a magical experience when drinking wine with cheese. My time in Paris was rapidly coming to an end and I needed a touch of magic.

So we planned on visiting the original wine bar, not just in Paris but around the world. It’s a small restaurant in the 11th arrondissement that introduced the concept of expertly chosen wines that are available by the glass and paired with the best foods and cheeses.

Unfortunately, it was August and we met outside a closed restaurant. However, all was not lost. Jean-Pierre had lived nearby a decade earlier and knew a special little restaurant. We crossed our fingers that it was still around and not on the standard August Vacation.

Le Pure Café

Jean-Pierre lived in an apartment that looked down on this odd corner lot restaurant. He knew it a couple decades ago when the area was buzzing with good ol’ communist and worker activism. This restaurant/bar was a meeting place for the Parisian Proletariat.

It’s now more bobo than prolo. The new owners have expanded the space and size of the bar. There’s still a small tribute to its red history, but the conversations are now about food, family, and work instead of revolution.

The interior is decidedly “shabby chic”. It’s the antithesis of Bofinger or the new restaurants that are meticulously designed. Le Pure Café seems to have grown organically and still exhibits some growing pains. For instance, the circuit breakers were tripped about every twenty minutes while we were there. The raucous din of conversations would abruptly stop as the lights went out and the waiter would lean over a dining table to flip the switch back on.

The food

Le Pure Café has a few vegetarian options on its menu. I chose a baked cheese ravioli dish in a cream sauce. It was very rich, cheesy, and satisfying. However, I was fascinated by my friend Philippe’s dish. He had Burrata. Keep an eye out for this cheese, I think it is going to be the new hotness.

Burrata – Buffalo Mozzarella’s Creamy Sister

Burrata is like buffalo mozzarella with a cream center. He was served a large ball of cheese with a drizzling of pesto and sun-dried tomatoes. He also had a small green salad and some thinly sliced country ham. Obviously you could get it without the ham.

Burrata is very soft and tastes extremely fresh. It gives a new and decadent spin to the standard caprese salad. I would highly recommend this dish for your visit to Le Pure Café.

I’ve been looking for the cheese in California and have only found it in one Bay Area store. The fromager at Oakville Grocery, in Napa Valley, said the shelf life is very short; so most stores will be reluctant to stock it.

The Dessert

One cannot possibly live on pasta alone. No, one needs a balanced diet. In my case, the diet is balanced by a healthy serving of something chocolate. Le Pure Café certainly didn’t leave us unbalanced.

Jean-Pierre had a fabu tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream. Philippe had the carpaccio of pineapple (I prefer the version at La Bélière), and I had the mother of all tiramisu platters. I ordered the Declinaison Chocolats, or a quartet of marscapone delights. I was presented with four variations on the tiramisu concept. There was the standard espresso/chocolate variety, but I also got Pistache, Caramel, and Fruit Rouge. I truly couldn’t choose a favorite, they were all magnificent.

The Wine

Jean-Pierre and Philippe chose a good, but simple wine for me to try. Keep in mind, I’m over 40 years old and have not drank alcohol. So I was experiencing wine and alcohol at the same time… I have to say, it was horrible!

I’m sure the wine was good. I’m sure it would have been magical with cheese. I’m probably going to burn in some alternative wine-hell for dissing vin rouge. But I shuddered and went into body writhing convulsions every time I swallowed the wine. I think Jean-Pierre thought I was being possessed by some kind of voodoo.

I now can live the rest of my life knowing that I really didn’t miss anything in France by choosing Perrier over wine at the dinner table. I still enjoy cooking with booze, but I can cancel any future wine trains through the Napa Valley.

Le Pure Café Summary

Le Pure Café is a hidden restaurant in the 11th. It sits in the split of two side streets that are accessed via a side street. So you’ll need to have your map with you. However, it is certainly worth the trip.

The service was friendly, although a bit slow. The food was wonderful and the wine didn’t kill me. The highlights were certainly the cheese based dishes. I didn’t see much for vegans, but lacto-ovo vegetarians should love it. The restaurant is triangular with large doors on two sides. This makes it fairly wheelchair accessible.

Dinner for the three of us, including dessert and wine was 96 euros.

Update: Watch closely and you’ll find Le Pure Cafe as the backdrop for a recent Windows 7 commercial on television.

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Jazz Music

This are two face to La Bélière. The first is for dinner, where food takes the attention and music provides the backdrop. However, the focus shifts in the late hours as the kitchen shuts down and it becomes a vibrant Jazz bar. The owner’s been known to keep the place open and hopping until the sun rises. So plan on taking your time and possibly staying much later than you expected.

The Menu

Unfortunately there are not a lot of options on the menu for vegetarians. However, don’t let that stop you. Ask for the plate des legumes. This is a selection of vegetables being served with the various dinner plates. Jacques is a master at blending traditional French cuisine with Asian and Mediterranean dishes. You’ll be surprised by the variety. This is usually a good option for vegans as well.

There’s also a tomato/mozzarella mille-feuille salad that is amazing. It comes with ham but simply ask for it “sans jambon”. This is a full meal in itself.

The menu at this restaurant hasn’t changed much over the years; so keep an eye out for the daily specials. This is where Jacques has more room to stretch his culinary muscles. You may also want to make reservations several days in advance and ask for vegetarian options. Jacques speaks English fluently, so you can say hello while you are dining. Actually, everyone that works there seems to speak excellent English.

Dinner should cost between 15-30 euros, depending on your desire for dessert and/or drinks. The meals are large so plan on sharing an appetizer and watch out for the mother of all profiteroles for dessert. She’s a whopper!

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I stopped here during a chilly, rainy summer evening. The outdoor seating has a nice heater and lighting for a comfortable place to enjoy a meal and a book. Luckily they also had a couple vegetarian options.

While I was in the mood for a salad, their eggplant lasagna sounded like a better choice. The lasagna comes in a small terrine with layers of eggplant and sauce. It’s not your traditional lasagna with gobs of sauce and cheese. This is a lighter version with a slightly spicy sauce.

This also came with a mozzarella and tomato salad and rustic bread. The salad was nice, but had some crunchy bits that made me wonder if the lettuce was washed completely. It had a healthy portion of fresh mozzarella and a sampling of tapenade for flavor.

Comfort + Food

As I mentioned earlier, their outdoor seating area was quite comfortable. I pulled out my French history book and enjoyed reading for over an hour while watching the rain come down in heavy sheets. Evenings are special in Paris during the summer. A hearty meal, a good book, and a comfortable chair are what Paris memories are made of.

Your Meat Eating Friends will be Happy

Le Bistro du Peintre also has a good reputation for the standard meat-based bistro dishes, such as tartar, duck confit, and marrow bones. So this is also a good choice if you are dining with a bunch of meat eating friends.

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Indiana Cafe is a popular “Tex Mex” restaurant chain in Paris. You’ll find their distinctive red/black awnings and tables at any fashionable or popular area. The menu is filled with dishes inspired by American food and is a good place to go if you are a meat eater. One of my co-workers loves their hamburgers. He also fell in love with the Double bacon cheeseburger at Jack in the Box while visiting California. …I’m just saying…

Indiana Cafe’s menu also features a veggie burger, enchiladas, and salad. I’ve visited them twice and the veggie burger is not available. I think they’ve permanently stopped serving it, but leave it on the menu. This is really frustrating as it would be great to have lunch with friends and enjoy a veggie burger.

Instead you are left choosing a marginal salad or the enchiladas. I grew up on the border of Mexico in San Diego. I know enchiladas. I’ve worked with enchiladas. These are not enchiladas. Enchiladas should not have 15 ingredients within the masa envelope. These are a mess.

So be warned if you venture within the red and black Indiana Cafe. Your meat eating friends may enjoy it but you’ll find yourself with mediocre food for too much money.

It was shocking to see these huge salads for the first time. Not that it stopped me from ordering them, mind you. There’s enough cheese on them to sink a battle ship! And my gut is a combination of a frigate and a destroyer!

But this is France and food is about quality over quantity. So I’m happy to report the salads are just as tasty as they are huge. I’ve had the Sequine with a poached egg and chevre tartines, as well as the Parisienne (without the ham). The Parisienne’s cheese count was downright obscene and I loved every minute of it.

I’m still on a damn diet so I haven’t tried the crème brûlée, but I’ve been told it is to die for. I’ve also seen someone with the cafe gourmande that looked decadent.

La Chope Champerret is right next to the Porte de Champerret metro exit (line 3). It has patio seating and only a small step to enter. I don’t know what the bathroom situation is like, but it seems pretty wheelchair friendly.

La Chope Champerret

143, Avenue de Villiers (17°)

01 43 80 80 64

Metro: Porte de Champerret

Brasserie

• Overall: 4/5
• Location: 4/5
• Taste: 4.5/5
• Service: 4/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 4/5
• Vegan Friendly: 3/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

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I found a few reviews; the following one in French summarizes the attention to luxury and food.

Très bonne impression

Idéalement situé face au théatre des Bouffes Parisiens, le Old Jawad est un indo pakistanais de qualité. La décoration, chic juste ce qu’il faut et moderne, donne une ambiance chaleureuse et cosy. On jouit largement de l’espace avec des tables bien disposées où on ne profite pas de la conversation des convives voisins. Le service est très efficace et sympathique et en plus l’apéritif et le digestif sont offerts. Une bonne adresse avec un rapport qualité/prix excellent.

RestoAParis.com

Old Jawad

1, Rue Monsigny (2°)

Metro: Quatre Septembre, Pyramides

01 42 96 16 61

Indian/Pakistani Restaurant

Gridskipper, a travel web site describes the special connection between France and Lebanese culture

Those in the know will visit Paris for excellent terroir cuisine to be sure, but they will also know to look for certain regional fare such as Meditarranean food. In that category (a diverse lot ranging from North African to Greek and Jewish cooking), Lebanese cuisine is a heavy hitter and a favorite amongst the locals. Narrow historical ties between the two countries (Lebanon was a French UN mandate from the end of WWI until WWII, earning Beirut the nickname of “Paris of the East”) have led to a steady influx of Lebanese immigrants into Paris, which of course has translated into a vibrant and bountiful restaurant scene.
Best Lebanese Dining in Paris: La Taverne du Nil

I visited this restaurant with a meat eating friend. We chose the Mézzé platter at 43 Euros to share family style. This is a selection of 9 small dishes. There was an assortment of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, from Hummus to sausage. We simply asked the waiter to bring a variety of mostly vegetarian and a couple meat dishes. You could also request purely vegetarian or vegan options. They have enough to chose from.

While this is a collection of small dishes, it certainly was not a small meal. The platter was seemingly bottomless. It’s a pricey meal at 43 Euros, but not a bad value. The food is fresh and well prepared. The service was great, the environment was great for conversations, and the location is central.

La Taverne du Nil

16, rue Le Regrattier (4e)

01 40 46 09 02

Metro: Pont-Marie

Lebanese restaurant

• Overall: 4.5/5
• Location: 5/5
• Taste: 4/5
• Service: 4/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 4/5
• Vegan Friendly: 3/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

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I came across La Reine de Saba while dining at Tien Hiang, the popular vegetarian Chinese restaurant across the street. Luckily, my friend Will was visiting Paris and I talked him into joining me for an Ethiopian meal.

La Reine de Saba is only open at night and it’s a popular place after 9. If you are looking for a late night meal, call ahead for a reservation. You shouldn’t need one before 9.

The restaurant has the typical Ethiopian decor, it is clean, friendly, and they speak English. The majority of the menu is filled with goat, chicken, and fish. However, they do have some vegetarian options. Your best choice is the vegetarian plate. It includes salad, spinach, lentils, and another veggie dish. There will be ample crepes to eat with and no forks or knives.

The food was good. I would have preferred a bit more variety in the vegetable plate. I’ve been to several Ethiopian restaurants and usually get more than 4-5 variations. It’s also not spicy, which is a welcome relief the next day. If you know what I mean.

There is a special menu for groups of people. This group menu features lots of meat, but they should be able to do something for a group of veggies.

Ethiopian restaurants are more than a place to eat. There’s a convivial atmosphere and food is celebrated. La Reine de Saba extends this with live music on special nights. I think I’d go across the street to Tien Hiang if I were by myself, but La Reine de Saba is better for a group of friends who want to enjoy a festive night of mushy vegetables and spongie bread. There’s a lot to love about it.

La Reine de Saba

91, rue du Chemin Vert (11°)

01 49 29 99 68

Metro: St. Maur, Voltaire, Pére la Chaise

Ethiopian restaurant

• Overall: 4/5
• Location: 4/5
• Taste: 4/5
• Service: 5/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 4/5
• Vegan Friendly: 4/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 4/5

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This street is home to the oldest pâtissier in Paris: La Maison Stohrer; creator of the Baba au Rhum. It’s also home to several famous and memorable restaurants, cafes, gelato stands, and much more. Needless to say, there’s some stiff competition in this area for restaurants.

Foody’s Salad Bar

Foody’s Salad Bar is a simple, comfortable restaurant that has found it’s calling amongst the more classical and/or tourist restaurants. It’s menu is simple, the food is fresh, the atmosphere is comfortable and unrushed.

I stopped by on a Saturday afternoon and grabbed a bowl of vegetable soup and a much needed coffee. There were several small families enjoying the outdoor tables. The service is pretty simple, you walk in, grab a tray and start creating a salad. There’s also a small pasta bar and soup is available at the counter. You can also get sodas, juices, coffee, and more.

First off, coffee is not their specialty. It was hot, caffeinated, and hit the spot. But I wouldn’t go here for coffee as a rule. They do, however have a house specialty of hot chocolate that should be good.

More importantly, the soup was very good. It was a roughly pureed soup of market vegetables served in a large bowl. It was flavorful and satisfying. They also had a Tomato soup and a Gezpacho with tomato and basil. They cost only 4.50 euros.

The salad bar features a variety of fresh vegetables and prepared salads. You can choose either a small (5.50 Euros) or large (7 Euros) plate to fill. The pasta bar is also quite affordable.

I didn’t see any meat on the menu, although there may have been some tuna on the salad bar. This shouldn’t deter your Meat Eating Friends. This restaurant has more than enough variety to satisfy anyones cravings.

Foody’s also sits next to  Naturalia, an organic store, an organic sandwich shop, and a juice bar. I guess you could call this section of the street “the heart of veggies in the heart of the city on the street that captures the heart of the city”. All in all, it’s good for the cœur.

Foody’s

26, rue Montorgueil (1°)

01 40 13 02 53

Metro: Les Halles

Soup and Salad cafe

• Overall: 4.5/5
• Location: 5/5
• Taste: 4/5
• Value: 4/5
• Service: 5/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
• Vegan Friendly: 5/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 4/5

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Restaurant La Gazelle is a nice Cameroon restaurant in the 17th arrindissemont. I was hoping for a large selection of vegetarian food, ala Ethiopian cuisine. Unfortunately, the menu is filled with goat, chicken, and fish. The vegetarian options were very slim. However, the super-model waitress said they’d be happy to create a vegetarian menu option if you call in advance.

I ordered fried plantains and potatoes. The dishes were superb. They were tasty and satisfying, albeit more like side dishes than a meal.

Restaurant La Gazelle is a good choice for your meat eating friends. However, you should try to call in advance. The food is very good, the prices are reasonable, and the service was friendly and nice. Just be careful with the hot sauce. It’s a doozy!

Restaurant La Gazelle

9, rue Rennequine (17°)

01 42 67 64 28

Metro: Pereire

African restaurant

• Overall: 3.5/5
• Location: 3/5
• Taste: 4.5/5
• Service: 4/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 2/5
• Vegan Friendly: 2/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

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