There’s a Marché des Producteurs de Pays scheduled for May 22 and 23 in the 12th arr. It’s conveniently located between metros Daumesnil and Dugommier.

Keep an eye out for socks and blankets from angora sheep, dandelion wine, sheep’s milk soap, regional cheese and cookies, and buy a hunk of bread from the 3 feet wide circles.

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Even though I moved away from Paris a few months ago and returned this week, my Parisian grandmother didn’t miss a step. When it came time to order she remembered I was a vegetarian and suggested a wonderful spinach/cheese tart for an appetizer and mixed omelette with fries. Frankly, I was ready to change the fries to spinach as a customer was given their plate with a pile of great looking greens.

Chez Grand-Mère Le Chablis has a small menu written on chalk boards hanging on the walls. You can expect at least one lacto/ovo vegetarian option. I especially enjoy their terrine with chevre and sun dried tomatoes.

They are open for lunch and you can expect to pay 12-16 euros for a two or three course meal. That includes a healthy dose of grandmotherly love.

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So I finally decided to see what the fuss was all about. Jean-Pierre promised a magical experience when drinking wine with cheese. My time in Paris was rapidly coming to an end and I needed a touch of magic.

So we planned on visiting the original wine bar, not just in Paris but around the world. It’s a small restaurant in the 11th arrondissement that introduced the concept of expertly chosen wines that are available by the glass and paired with the best foods and cheeses.

Unfortunately, it was August and we met outside a closed restaurant. However, all was not lost. Jean-Pierre had lived nearby a decade earlier and knew a special little restaurant. We crossed our fingers that it was still around and not on the standard August Vacation.

Le Pure Café

Jean-Pierre lived in an apartment that looked down on this odd corner lot restaurant. He knew it a couple decades ago when the area was buzzing with good ol’ communist and worker activism. This restaurant/bar was a meeting place for the Parisian Proletariat.

It’s now more bobo than prolo. The new owners have expanded the space and size of the bar. There’s still a small tribute to its red history, but the conversations are now about food, family, and work instead of revolution.

The interior is decidedly “shabby chic”. It’s the antithesis of Bofinger or the new restaurants that are meticulously designed. Le Pure Café seems to have grown organically and still exhibits some growing pains. For instance, the circuit breakers were tripped about every twenty minutes while we were there. The raucous din of conversations would abruptly stop as the lights went out and the waiter would lean over a dining table to flip the switch back on.

The food

Le Pure Café has a few vegetarian options on its menu. I chose a baked cheese ravioli dish in a cream sauce. It was very rich, cheesy, and satisfying. However, I was fascinated by my friend Philippe’s dish. He had Burrata. Keep an eye out for this cheese, I think it is going to be the new hotness.

Burrata – Buffalo Mozzarella’s Creamy Sister

Burrata is like buffalo mozzarella with a cream center. He was served a large ball of cheese with a drizzling of pesto and sun-dried tomatoes. He also had a small green salad and some thinly sliced country ham. Obviously you could get it without the ham.

Burrata is very soft and tastes extremely fresh. It gives a new and decadent spin to the standard caprese salad. I would highly recommend this dish for your visit to Le Pure Café.

I’ve been looking for the cheese in California and have only found it in one Bay Area store. The fromager at Oakville Grocery, in Napa Valley, said the shelf life is very short; so most stores will be reluctant to stock it.

The Dessert

One cannot possibly live on pasta alone. No, one needs a balanced diet. In my case, the diet is balanced by a healthy serving of something chocolate. Le Pure Café certainly didn’t leave us unbalanced.

Jean-Pierre had a fabu tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream. Philippe had the carpaccio of pineapple (I prefer the version at La Bélière), and I had the mother of all tiramisu platters. I ordered the Declinaison Chocolats, or a quartet of marscapone delights. I was presented with four variations on the tiramisu concept. There was the standard espresso/chocolate variety, but I also got Pistache, Caramel, and Fruit Rouge. I truly couldn’t choose a favorite, they were all magnificent.

The Wine

Jean-Pierre and Philippe chose a good, but simple wine for me to try. Keep in mind, I’m over 40 years old and have not drank alcohol. So I was experiencing wine and alcohol at the same time… I have to say, it was horrible!

I’m sure the wine was good. I’m sure it would have been magical with cheese. I’m probably going to burn in some alternative wine-hell for dissing vin rouge. But I shuddered and went into body writhing convulsions every time I swallowed the wine. I think Jean-Pierre thought I was being possessed by some kind of voodoo.

I now can live the rest of my life knowing that I really didn’t miss anything in France by choosing Perrier over wine at the dinner table. I still enjoy cooking with booze, but I can cancel any future wine trains through the Napa Valley.

Le Pure Café Summary

Le Pure Café is a hidden restaurant in the 11th. It sits in the split of two side streets that are accessed via a side street. So you’ll need to have your map with you. However, it is certainly worth the trip.

The service was friendly, although a bit slow. The food was wonderful and the wine didn’t kill me. The highlights were certainly the cheese based dishes. I didn’t see much for vegans, but lacto-ovo vegetarians should love it. The restaurant is triangular with large doors on two sides. This makes it fairly wheelchair accessible.

Dinner for the three of us, including dessert and wine was 96 euros.

Update: Watch closely and you’ll find Le Pure Cafe as the backdrop for a recent Windows 7 commercial on television.

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Jazz Music

This are two face to La Bélière. The first is for dinner, where food takes the attention and music provides the backdrop. However, the focus shifts in the late hours as the kitchen shuts down and it becomes a vibrant Jazz bar. The owner’s been known to keep the place open and hopping until the sun rises. So plan on taking your time and possibly staying much later than you expected.

The Menu

Unfortunately there are not a lot of options on the menu for vegetarians. However, don’t let that stop you. Ask for the plate des legumes. This is a selection of vegetables being served with the various dinner plates. Jacques is a master at blending traditional French cuisine with Asian and Mediterranean dishes. You’ll be surprised by the variety. This is usually a good option for vegans as well.

There’s also a tomato/mozzarella mille-feuille salad that is amazing. It comes with ham but simply ask for it “sans jambon”. This is a full meal in itself.

The menu at this restaurant hasn’t changed much over the years; so keep an eye out for the daily specials. This is where Jacques has more room to stretch his culinary muscles. You may also want to make reservations several days in advance and ask for vegetarian options. Jacques speaks English fluently, so you can say hello while you are dining. Actually, everyone that works there seems to speak excellent English.

Dinner should cost between 15-30 euros, depending on your desire for dessert and/or drinks. The meals are large so plan on sharing an appetizer and watch out for the mother of all profiteroles for dessert. She’s a whopper!

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The restaurant sits at the top of rue Mouffetard, one of my favorite spots in the city. It’s cheerful interior and ample servings make this a great option in the Left Bank.

As happens too often, I came across this restaurant after already eating a nice meal. So I cannot give a personal review. However, I looked at what people were eating and it looked great.

Les Cinq Saveurs d’Anada

72, rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5°)

Metro: Cardinal Lemoine, Place Monge

01 43 29 58 54

Wheelchair Friendly: The restaurant has a small step to enter but is otherwise wheelchair friendly. I don’t know if the restroom is downstairs or not.

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It was shocking to see these huge salads for the first time. Not that it stopped me from ordering them, mind you. There’s enough cheese on them to sink a battle ship! And my gut is a combination of a frigate and a destroyer!

But this is France and food is about quality over quantity. So I’m happy to report the salads are just as tasty as they are huge. I’ve had the Sequine with a poached egg and chevre tartines, as well as the Parisienne (without the ham). The Parisienne’s cheese count was downright obscene and I loved every minute of it.

I’m still on a damn diet so I haven’t tried the crème brûlée, but I’ve been told it is to die for. I’ve also seen someone with the cafe gourmande that looked decadent.

La Chope Champerret is right next to the Porte de Champerret metro exit (line 3). It has patio seating and only a small step to enter. I don’t know what the bathroom situation is like, but it seems pretty wheelchair friendly.

La Chope Champerret

143, Avenue de Villiers (17°)

01 43 80 80 64

Metro: Porte de Champerret

Brasserie

• Overall: 4/5
• Location: 4/5
• Taste: 4.5/5
• Service: 4/5
• Vegetarian Friendly: 4/5
• Vegan Friendly: 3/5
• M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

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I was asked recently for advice on vegetarian restaurants that were wheelchair friendly. It’s funny, one of my areas of expertise is making web sites accessible, but I never gave much thought to the restaurants I review. Is there a truly accessible restaurant in Paris?

I would likely say there is no such thing. Most Paris restaurants have terrible web sites filled with Flash movies that lock information away from users. Sure, it is possible to make Flash accessible to screen readers, but I wouldn’t expect to much from these. I’ve never seen braille menus in Paris. Most buildings in Paris have at least a small step before entering and the bathrooms are in the basement.

Accessible Restaurant Options in Paris

There is a restaurant that treats everyone as if they were blind. Dans le Noir diners are served in total darkness by people wearing night-vision goggles. Braille menus are available and it’s probably not filled with steps. They even have a vegetarian menu.

Your safest option for a meal and accessible bathroom is probably the foodmall inside the Louvre. It’s not very exciting—in fact its much like the food court in any major American shopping mall. However, there are elevators, easy access from the metro, and certainly a bathroom without steps (I haven’t checked). The food is ok and there is a good variety. It’s a good choice when you want something basic and don’t want to hastle with finding a restaurant with vegetarian options.

You’ll also find restaurants in modern buildings more appropriate. They’ll probably have better sidewalks, fewer steps, and bathrooms that are more wheelchair friendly.

I’ve started going back to my favorite restaurants and looking at how wheelchair friendly they are. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Chez Lili et Marcel has a ramp at the front door instead of a step and their bathroom is on the main level (it is a tight fit though).

Non-Accessible Vegetarian Restaurants

I should point out some popular restaurants that are not going to work with wheelchairs. Potager du Marais is extremely tight and the only option would be sitting outside on their narrow sidewalk. Grenier de Notre-Dame is also a tight restaurant on multi levels in an ancient building.

Most of the restaurants I’ve gone back to have a small step to enter and no wheelchair bathroom access. Life is much easier in Spring and Summer when the tables are brought out to the sidewalk and everyone eats under the setting sun. Please leave a comment on any of the Paris Vegetarian restaurant reviews with your viewpoint on its accessibility. Do you know any good restaurants I should add to an accessible vegetarian restaurant list?

Dans le Noir

51 rue Quincampoix (4°)

info@danslenoir.fr

tel: 01 42 77 98 04

fax: 01 42 77 98 07

Metro: Les Halles ( ligne 4 et 1 ),
Hôtel de ville ( ligne 1 et 11 )
Etienne Marcel ( ligne 4 )
Rambuteau ( ligne 11 ),
Châtelet-Les Halles (lignes A, B et D)

Restaurant

I’ve been to many boulangeries in Paris, but none struck me like Gana. It’s a powerful mixture of friendly service, busy bakers, and a stunning array of bread, pizzas, and pastry on display. The food is not decorated, spotlighted, gilded, or placed on a feather cushion.

This is solid, traditional food that makes you salivate as soon as the smell hits your nose.

Gana has been celebrated for their traditional bread making. You won’t find frozen dough delivered in the middle of the night at this bakery. This is French bread the way should be. I dare you to make it back to your home without biting a corner off of the bread. The crust is crisp and the interior is light and chewy.

Vegetarian and Vegan food

Gana is a boulangerie. It’s not a cafe or restaurant. It serves fantastic bread and desserts. They also have some amazing looking pizzas and tartines to snack on. However, you won’t find a huge assortment of vegetarian or vegan lunch items. I’m sure they have sandwiches available during the week, but I didn’t see any on my Saturday trip.

This restaurant is featured in Vivre bio à Paris.

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