Vegetarian Experiences in Paris » organic

BIOart – Organic gourmet along the Seine

Ted — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 17:06:57 +0000

Organic is a dirty word in Paris. Not that they are against organic produce as we know it. No, “organic” brings to mind roadkill and other rotting objects. Instead, the French use the term Biologique. BIOart is a restaurant that specializes in using only biologique ingredients in their cuisine.

I must admit I’ve passed this restaurant many, many times while heading home. It’s a bit cold on the outside, but supposedly very nice and comforting on the inside; where it really matters.

This was the first certified organic restaurant in France. The food is also locally produced and dishes are seasonal. You’ll find a wide variety of dishes for vegetarians and vegans. It’s a bit pricey, so save this for one of those special dinners on your vacation.

Travel and Leisure magazine featured BIOart in an eco-travel article:

A new addition to the city’s booming 13th Arrondissement, BioArt **** (dinner for two $100) serves an all-organic menu—risotto topped with shaved truffles; a terrine of diver scallops—in a design-forward space overlooking the Seine.
Eco-Friendly Guide to Paris, London and Stockholm

I have not visited this restaurant yet, so I cannot give a review.

BIOart: 1, quie Francoise-Mauriac (13°); Metro: Bibliotech Francoise Mitterand; 01 45 85 66 88/dd>

l’Epicerie Verte – Organic groceries and lunch

Ted — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 19:24:19 +0000

L’Epicerie Verte is a popular, small shop behind the Ternes farmer’s market on rue Saussier Leroy. They sell high quality organic groceries and serve light meals from lunch to early dinner.

I discovered l’Epicerie Verte while returning to work from lunch at another restaurant. So I have not tried it yet. However, the reviews on several French web sites has been promising. Here’s a short review from Annuaire-Parisien.Com:

Cette boutique de produits biologiques devient le midi un snack où vous pourrez commander tartes et salades à des prix tout doux. Une unique table avec des tabourets hauts vous permettra de lier connaissance avec d’autres végétariens.

Restaurants végétariens Paris 17

Across the street is Etik, a store that sells global, ethical, bio-diverse gifts and merchandise. You can eat organic, shop organic, and support the independent workshops in one little block.

l’Epicerie Verte: 5 rue Saussier Leroy (17°); 01 47 64 19 65; Metro: Ternes; Organic groceries and light meals

Le Campanier – The weekly grab bag of organic produce

Ted — Sat, 05 Jul 2008 12:28:33 +0000

I love Paris markets. It’s truly one of the greatest joys of living in this city.

However, I also work long hours and can’t always make it to my local markets in the morning. This leaves Saturday or Sunday for markets that are a few metro stops away. Wouldn’t it be nice to have an organic produce market come to you?

This is the concept behind Le Campanier, a company delivers a weekly bag filled with seasonal, organic vegetables or fruit to your local organic grocery store. You simply subscribe to the service on their web site and pick up your bag on Tuesday afternoon. The bags also feature recipes and information about the farmers and food.

Sample Deliveries

Vegetable Bag

Fresh Corn (France)
Carrots (Italy)
Cucumber (Spain)
Tomato (Spain)
Lettuce (France – Manche)

Fruit Bag

Melon (Vergeze)
Peaches (Italy)
Mini Watermelons (Spain)

It’s worth noting that the produce included in the bags are often times hard to find in the markets. For instance, I have been looking for fresh corn in the markets without any success. They also tend to include some of the ignored vegetables of yesteryear.

Clotilde Dusoulier has a nice description of the vegetables she received one week:

I was really happy to get parsnips : they belong to what is sometimes referred to as “les légumes oubliés” (forgotten vegetables), those vegetables we used to eat a lot in the past, but which have been more or less abandoned : panais, rutabagas, salsifis, pâtissons, crosnes…

I have read that most of these were what people had to live on during the second world war, so they were promptly pushed aside after the war, because of the bad memories they brought back. Nowadays these vegetables aren’t very widely cultivated and can seldom be found at produce stands. Of course, I find the idea of forgetting a vegetable heart-breaking and cruel and terrible and saddening, it makes me want to save the vegetable and bring it back home and give it love and affection and decorate a little room for it with a little bed it can sleep in. Ahem. Anyway, I was glad to welcome those parsnips into my vegetable drawer.
Le Campanier – A lucky bag of produce

Prices are reasonable, but not super cheap. Vegetable bags are 8-12 Euros and Fruit bags are 10 Euros. However, it’s important to remember that you are supporting sustainable, organic farming and enjoying the convenience of fresh food delivered to your closest organic store.

Gout Zen – Vegetarian and Organic Restaurant

Ted — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 14:24:39 +0000

Paris is full of surprises. There are little gems around every corner. The Parisian Sweet Bar in the 12th arrondissement is an example. You’ll also find small museums, art galleries, pocket sized parks, and chunks of ancient history.

This leads me to Gout Zen. I stumbled across this restaurant while leaving an unfamiliar metro exit (Bibliotheque). The street is subterranean, with car-filled bridges above, towering buildings, old stone steps to new areas, and a green beacon of light and energy.

Gout Zen is a restaurant, cafe, and organic market all wrapped into one. It reminds me of the No Stress Cafe, near Place de Pigalle. There’s more to just eating at Gout Zen. You can rent a heated wrap for your tired shoulders at 1 Euro for 15 minutes, use free wireless, and purchase some organic food and supplies. It’s a friendly cafe that is bright and comfortable.

I had the vegetable bruschetta at 6 euros. Although a tad salty, I enjoyed the snack and used the wireless until my laptop battery died. The cafe also features some interesting vegan alternatives. I’m dying to try the faux steak au poivre. The fixed price menus range from 8 to 15 euros and include a variety of vegetarian and vegan options.

Finding Gout Zen is a bit tricky. Take the Rue Du Chevaleret exit if you are coming from the metro line 14 or RER C. You can also reach it by climbing down the steps on Rue de Tolbiac, Rue Thomas Mann, and Rue des Grands Moulins. I’d suggest using the Rue de Tolbiac steps.

Gout Zen: 54, Rue du Chevalaret (13°); 01 45 86 26 23; contact@goutzen.fr; Metro: Bibliotheque; Restaurant and Epicerie; Free Wireless

Overall: 4/5
Location: 3/5
Taste: 4/5
Service: 5/5
Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
Vegan Friendly: 5/5
M.E.F. Friendly: 3/5

Le Pain Quotidien – Marais bistro and bakery

Ted — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 13:10:12 +0000

I first saw this restaurant on a cold rainy Sunday. The place was packed and people were waiting under umbrellas for a chance to sit down. Luckily tonight it was slow and I have throughly enjoyed the peaceful evening.

Le Pain Quotidien sits in the heart of the Marais. It triangulates BHV, the grand department store and Quetzal, a popular old gay bar. There’s a steady stream of pedestrians with a soft cacophony of voices and laughter.

Le Pain Quotidien’s attention to details makes this small boulangerie/bistro a real winner. Everything is presented beautifully and with careful attention. I sat outside in the patio where I was provided not only a space heater, but also a small blanket for my lap.

The tables and chairs are simple, yet comfortable. Which explains much of this restaurant’s charm. I especially appreciated individual grinders for sea salt and black pepper, not to mention a nice bottle of olive oil on every table.

The menu is rather short, it features a variety of tartines, salads, and casseroles. Much of it is either meat or cheese based, but there are a few salads for the vegans. There’s also a selection of pastries inside and a small store of organic items.

I recently visited a vegetarian restaurant that featured great food but disappointing bread. Le Pain Quotidien took this organic, whole wheat, daily bread to a whole new level. It was soft, flavorful, and served as not only the foundation for the tartine, but a critical part of its texture and flavor.

I ordered the Tartine with chevre, pears, and honey. It was served with a nice salad and melon. I followed this with a pot of mint tea. The flavors were clean and distinct.

My only criticism is the service. While it was very friendly, the staff ignored the few of us in the outdoor patio. I didn’t mind too much, as i enjoyed the opportunity to relax and catch up on writing cards and working on the computer. Bring a book or a friend to fill the time before appearances.

Le Pain Quotidien is a wonderful addition to my list of restaurants. I will certainly return in the future.

Note: This is a chain of restaurants in Europe. This review is specific to the Marais restaurant and may not reflect on all of them. The branch in the London train station certainly doesn’t have the same atmosphere or food quality. However, it does feature some nice muffins and coffee/tea.

Le Pain Quotidien: 18-20, rue des Archives (4°); 01 44 54 03 07; Hotel de Ville; Boulangerie, Bistro; website: LePainQuotidien.com

Overall: 5/5
Location: 5/5
Taste: 5/5
Service: 4.5
Vegetarian Friendly: 5/5
Vegan Friendly: 4/5
M.E.F. Friendly: 5/5

Au Levain du Marais – 3rd Arr.

Ted — Sun, 09 Dec 2007 13:26:34 +0000

I have not visited this restaurant yet. The information comes from Vivre bio à Paris.

Au Levain du Marais: 32, rue de Turenne (3°); 01 42 78 07 31; Saint-Paul or Chemin-Vert; Boulangerie

Overall: unrrated/5
Location: 4.5/5 stars
Taste: unrated
Service: unrated
Vegetarian Friendly: unrated
Vegan Friendly: unrated
M.E.F. Friendly: unrated

There are also stores at 28, boulevard Beaumarchais (11°) and 142, avenue Parmentier (11°)