I grew up in Southern California where a cold day meant you had to wear pants instead of shorts and a t shirt. Now I’m in Paris where cold means snow or ice on the ground and shorts can be a dim memory. The scarf is around your face and gloves are on the hands.
So now that it is fall and the days are getting shorter and colder; my mind has been going to something warm and satisfying: soup. The Parisian restaurants are filled with creative soup recipes. It’s a far cry from the standard vegetarian chili, lentil, and chunky vegetable soup you are lucky to find in American restaurants.
It’s time to pack away the shorts, sandals, and t-shirts. Bring out those sweaters, scarves, jackets, and gloves. We’re going on a field trip for soup in Paris.
Soup de Jour at Parisian Sweet Bar
Perhaps this cafe was the cause of my current obsession with soup. I stopped off a few weeks ago for my cafe au lait and found two new hotpots in the counter filled with soup. They feature two vegetarian soups every day. They also feature a small fixed menu deal, you get a large bowl of soup and a dessert (try the rice pudding) for 6.50 euros.
Their soups are also quite adventurous. Today I had a carrot and pineapple soup with walnut garnish. I’ve also had their Potiron (pumpkin) soup that was fantastic. They also feature a market vegetable soup for the less adventurous.
Parisian Sweet Bar is a wonderful cafe near Bercy park. They are filled with vegetarian delights and the friendliest service around.
Stuart Friendly – Spicy tomato soup
After working another 12 hour day, I needed something to take the chill off my bones and wake me up. I stopped off at Stuart Friendly, a small restaurant near rue Montorguiel. They had a smaller vegetarian selection than I had expected. However, they did feature a spicy Mediterranean tomato soup. The large bowl was almost too large. Go for the small bowl unless you are really hungry.
Minestrone Soup at your local Italian restaurant
There’s a small Italian restaurant next to my work. It’s a decent place, nothing to go out of your way for. I was happy to see a sign tacked to the wall for a vegetarian minestrone. The soup had lots of noodles and vegetables. I can’t say I’d recommend this particular recipe. But it would be a good idea to ask you local italian restaurant if their minestrone is vegetarian (or vegan). You may find it a much better choice than another linguine au pesto.
La Victoire in the Marais
Last night I stopped off at La Victoire, Suprême du Coeur for some soup. The daily special was a pumpkin/coconut milk soup. This was a great tasting soup. I’d highly recommend it. In fact, it’s a nice meal by itself.
Tien Hiang – Thai soup
Tien Hiang has a huge menu of vegetarian Asian cuisine. Their Thai soup is a standout amongst the various chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes. This tiny cafe in the 20th arr. is popular for a reason, great vegetarian/vegan food at low prices.
le Potager du Marais
How can I discuss soup in Paris without coming back to Le Potager du Marais? This popular restaurant in the Marais is soup central for vegetarians. It’s the place to go for a vegetarian French Onion Soup and much more. It doesn’t hurt to make reservations as the place is very tight and fills up quickly.
Soup and more at La Ferme
La Ferme is a pseudo-bohemian soup, salad, and pasta restaurant near Opera. It’s rustic interior matches their hardy vegetable soup. La Ferme is a simple place where you eat as if everything is takeout.
What is your favorite place for soup du jour?
Hopefully this post tempts you into the cold night for a bowl of warm soup. What is your favorite place to get soup in Paris?
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Thanks for your posts, that will be of great help for those veggie travelers as me.
Hi there,
Thanks for all your really interesting posts. We’ll be coming to Paris in December so looking forward to trying a few of these restaurants out. Went to “le potager du marais” last time I was there. I especially like the look of the cheese and wine restaurant you mentioned a while back.
Would you recommend any vegetarian restaurants for a romantic meal? (we’re going to be staying near the Sorbonne?)
Cheers
I have to say I am not an expert on romantic restaurants in Paris. Mostly because I am very cheap and they tend to charge a bit more. However, here are some suggestions.
1. Le Grenier de Notre Dame is nearby. It is cozy, candlelit, and offers just enough privacy to hear each other without sharing with the rest of the guests. I ate there one night next to a couple celebrating their honeymoon. They were very pleased. It’s a completely vegetarian restaurant and is affordable.
2. Dinner cruise on the Seine. Yes, it is cliche but there is a reason for their popularity. Most offer vegetarian menus. I may take a walk down the Seine to look for good choices. Although you could ask your hotel to book a reservation for you.
3. I really like the advice from David Lebovitz’s blog. Try some of the recommendations in this post: Romantic Restaurants in Paris. Check out the comments. Most of them are not vegetarian. But Parisian restaurants will typically prepare a vegetarian plate upon request.
4. Picnic – Yes, it will be cold in December. But you may get one of the beautiful sunny days that are cold, crisp, yet warm in the sun. You could visit a farmers market and create your own picnic.
5. Jacquemart-Andre Museum cafe. The museum is one of the less traveled gems in Paris. The cafe is beautiful, but not too expensive. It’s more of a lunch than dinner location.
Hi Ted,
Thanks for your reply. I might give the Grenier a try although I’ve read mixed reviews. A couple of the others ideas sound pretty nice too. I quite fancy the museum cafe for an afternoon tea.
I’ve never really thought about a cruise but as you say it might be a nice idea. I think somewhere on solid ground may be better though!
Thanks again,
Andy
@Andy I sent an email to Ciel de Paris asking about vegetarian options. This restaurant has tremendous views of the city. They said they offer a vegetarian menu. I would suggest making a reservation and specifying the vegetarian menu before you arrive.